Andreas Melbostad got in on a Nineties revival for fall at Diesel Black Gold. The collection was anchored in a single silhouette — long and lean — that exuded polished, urban grunge. The majority of the looks were built on a robust piece of outerwear, such as an aggressive shiny black leather shearling or Matrix-y leather trench, over a long skirt or dress and streamlined sneakers. The girls walked like they had somewhere to go in a hurry.

The flashback was clear but it didn’t look dated. Melbostad renewed utility-influenced denim and leather in taut proportions, as seen on a fitted denim top with jean pockets and a leather apron shirt. The long layers included slit front jean skirts, ribbed knits in drab colors and foulard print dresses that gave the lineup its most fluid, feminine edge.