Eager to expand beyond Pucci prints, Massimo Giorgetti has been digging into the “total color” side of the house archive for the past couple of seasons. “I will always love print,” he said before the fall show. “But Emilio Pucci can be a color brand, optimistic and positive.” Going happy, bold and bright should be encouraged, but Giorgetti seems to equate these ideas, which often go hand-in-hand with youthfulness and energy, with kookiness. He went a tad overboard at times.
An orange wrapped dress with a smattering of long fringe for swing? Great — it had just enough color and movement. But what of a split-pea green sequined top cuffed with fringe so long it dragged on the ground alongside mint green pants? And the various looks worn with floppy-brimmed cashmere hats trimmed in floor-length — yes, floor-length — fringe that covered the face like a jellyfish? Giorgetti said they were “fun,” but the silliness landed neither here nor there within the theme of the show.
As it turned out, though, he pursued color as a big message in this collection, the things that looked best were the graphic paisley prints — Giorgetti’s first original print for the house — on a quilted wrap poncho and an oversize coat.