What a difference a season can make: Ermanno Scervino tightened his focus for fall with a sharp, utterly appealing lineup of sparkly military coats, tailored check suits and sheer dresses with a sporty twist. Having sent out a vast, disjointed collection for spring, he homed in on a few key ideas, calling the collection “Soldier of Love,” and describing his woman backstage as “chaste, sensual — and more liberated than in the past.” What a sophisticated lady she was.
Scervino sent out woolen military coats in olive or gray-blue, some adorned with black beaded and fringed epaulets, others with colored fur snaking around the arms or around the neck. There were snappy, wide-leg trouser suits in a Prince of Wales check, their jackets nipped at the waist, and a matching coat with diamante sparkles spilling down the front. Scervino worked cream and baby blue wide wale corduroy into other trouser suits — sturdy, upbeat clothing for a cold winter’s day.
By contrast, gossamer dresses came in lace and organza, their waists cinched with sporty, striped macramé belts. Other equally delicate ones came in black, navy, pink or cream, and had broad V-necklines or cutout backs, alternately revealing and concealing the body. Long live Scervino’s freedom fighters.