There was a punk flavor to this collection by Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi, who believe women want to tear up their wardrobes and piece them back together in different — and more laid-back — ways. “These are iconic pieces, but in the context of today: masculine-feminine silhouettes and embellished, sporty clothing,” Aquilano said backstage after the show, which was set in a new brick-and-concrete loft space near Linate airport.
The designers riffed on Fay’s outerwear staples — duffle and military coats, hooded jackets, and toppers done in check and plaid fabrics. They sprinkled them with clusters of diamanté jewels, or punched them full of small, shiny studs. There were flippy, pleated skirts and short jackets in plaid or leather, some bejeweled, others streaked with zippers or dotted with studs, while a few glowed with iridescent leather made to look like python.
Plaid overcoats and duffles had large, rounded shoulders in a nod to all those oversize proportions swarming the European catwalks, while a neat peplum jacket with a drawstring waist and a big white collar had a spray of sparkly jewels at the front. None of it this was groundbreaking, but that’s not the point. It was classy — and commercial.