There was a geometric slant to this sober, handsome collection, which was heavy on deconstructed tailoring in both masculine and feminine fabrics.
It was clear that Colangelo, who is also creative director of the luxury fashion brand Giada, put much thought into his treatment of the fabrics, which came needle-punched, laser-cut, pleated and puckered — or simply sliced into angular shapes.
Big, sailorlike collars adorned jackets and tops, while an oversize diamond pattern was picked out in shiny beads across coats and skirts. Sharp pleats were softened with crinkles on a long, dark skirt, while dangling white strings sprouted from delicate cotton dresses, some pleated, others with handkerchief hems or elegant needle-punch sashes shooting across the torso.
Colangelo said he was looking to fuse masculine fabrics — as in the wool check pattern that spread across coats and flat-front trousers — with a feminine fluidity. The latter shone through in slouchy sweaters and short shearling coats with rounded sleeves that were left unbuttoned, and a draped dress with a single, long fluttering sleeve.