Rodolfo Paglialunga ended his three-year tenure at Jil Sander with a quiet, elegant collection. The lineup reflected both the minimalist aesthetic of the house and the designer’s discreet, yet quirky approach to fashion. Paglialunga focused mainly on tailored designs, which he reworked and reproportioned, giving them an edgy — and occasionally ungainly — aspect.
Cashmere suits and coats, a padded trenchcoat and clean tunic dresses were cut with strong shoulders and voluminous, flaring sleeves. Ribbed-knit dresses, as well as silk ones bearing an abstract pattern, were draped to create new shapes, while tunics were elongated and paired with flared, ankle-length skirts for a long, lean silhouette. The subdued color palette included black, cherry red, tobacco brown and white, with hints of bright yellow and orange. The show closed with a touch of glamour, with textured metallic fabrics crafted into a range of evening dresses, including a sleeveless style featuring a panel tied around the hips.
Lucie and Luke Meier are expected to succeed Paglialunga, as reported in WWD on Jan. 11. Lucie Meier comes from Dior while her husband Luke is the cofounder and designer of men’s label OAMC.