Krizia creative director Zhu Chongyun is steadily moving the house, which prior to her arrival had been very quiet for some time, into the now. Her vision of infusing minimalism into Krizia’s DNA is going well, delivering wearable, elevated takes on the house’s signature knits and animalia, which is saying something because making cat faces feel luxurious is tricky. For fall, jaguar face motifs were worked into colorful, semiabstract intarsias on oversize sweaters worn with cleanly tailored bottoms.

More than knits and cats, the collection balanced chicly exaggerated tailoring against soft fluidity, and texture with sobriety. “We used pleats in a very relaxed way,” said Chongyun, referencing a white shirtdress with elongated sleeves and an asymmetrical hem. Fabrics were topnotch, including virgin wool, fil coupe and macramé lace. The new day at Krizia is looking bright.