Dualism was key to Laura Biagiotti’s collection for fall.

The designer, a longtime collector of art, looked back to Alberto Burri’s focus on textures, use of non-traditional materials and “cracked” paintings, as well as to Antonio Canova, blending deconstructed designs with classicism.

Cases in point, light, silk ponchos and handkerchief skirts showed prints in natural, marblelike hues with a chipped effect reminiscent of Burri’s works. Textures were enhanced by velvet and sequin patchwork and 3-D embroideries with crystals, or gold threads lightening up Biagiotti’s staple ivory cashmere knits.

“Dressing is an art,” Biagiotti said backstage. “We try to find a meaning to fashion but there are so many answers and the message conveyed by clothes is boundless. Clothes can express our nature, or sometimes, on the contrary, they help hide, disguise or protect ourselves.” To be sure, it’s easy to bundle up in Biagiotti’s sleek cashmere coats, some in multicolor, graphic combinations, others embellished by artistic brush strokes. Except for body-hugging velvet dresses with floral motifs and a number of looks cinched at the waist, shapes were loose and fluid.

The designer gifted show attendees with her new Roma Passione fragrance, which came in a red bottle and package; several red looks were paraded on the catwalk. There is no denying that Biagiotti’s passion for fashion, transmitted to her daughter Lavinia (who took a bow with her mother), is solid and enduring.

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