It’s difficult to put your finger on what ready-to-wear from Salvatore Ferragamo should be. The brand image as a leather goods house is one of timelessness and quality — belts, loafers, maybe a rainbow stacked platform spring to mind — but when it comes to the clothes, there’s a question mark. Now in his second season as women’s design director, Fulvio Rigoni is sorting out his vision of Ferragamo as a resource for real clothes that are “dynamic, luxurious, comfortable, yet sensual,” as he said backstage. Those words can go in many aesthetic directions, and, here, they haven’t crystalized just yet.
He took some of the colors, shapes and mood of twisted luxury from a Serge Lutens TV campaign for Jun Ropé from the Seventies. “His idea of beauty is very peculiar and kind of surreal,” Rigoni said. “I translated it into very real.” Indeed, the shapes were very wearable with slim dresses, coats and skirts slit for movement and a fair amount of sportiness in some nice cropped puffer jackets and stirrup pants.
The show opened with a fitted, gray/beige leather blazer over a knit turtleneck in the same color and a lean skirt to the knee. He worked in muted animalia, for example, on a long-sleeved dress that mixed leopard spots, zebra stripes and paw prints in soft beige, white and black. The lean silhouette held steady, cycling through animal-print slipdresses with folded details, architectural high-waisted wrap skirts in brown, green and purple leather, and a finale of black tailoring and soft separates, such as a mohair organza tank over black pants.
Overall, the impression was gentle refinement, but some details were a bit off. Rigoni wanted things to be versatile, which is great, but when it gets warm, will women really take their arms out of the sleeves of a light blue leopard coat dress and let them spill over their shoulders? What about a fur parka with a stiff sculptural collar propped up around the neck? These are things he needs to work out.