Tod’s returned to the runway format with its fall collection, which was designed by a team, who took the bow at the end of a show strong on outerwear and accessories, the brand’s core business.

The first look set the tone, with Mariacarla Boscono wearing a below-the-knee leather skirt with a web of intarsia running down its length, a longer version of a biker jacket and a white blouse. She carried a structured tote embellished with a quilted pattern on the sides, and mid-calf booties. Down jackets evolved with a bigger volume and combining different colors — white, black and milk chocolate, for example, and had an edgy look worn over skintight leather pants. Tod’s introduced the creeper sole, a new rubber base on its staple moccasins with tassels and high-heeled lace-up ankle boots.  There was also a saddlery theme, with a standout trenchcoat with leather details worn with knee-high riding boots. The classic Double T Charlotte shoulder bag was also revisited with graphic elements reminiscent of saddles.

The collection was sophisticated and once again emphasized Tod’s leather craftsmanship — heightened by the “Wrapping” performance and installation by Thomas De Falco presented at the entrance of the show venue, the contemporary art museum PAC, with models, including Naomi Campbell, clad in swatches of leather.  “We want to continue to link the brand with art,” said chairman and ceo Diego Della Valle, referring to a previous performance for the brand by Vanessa Beecroft.