Debuting her semi-eponymous line’s largest collection to date, designer Alyssa Lesser continued to challenge the denim industry with her experimentation with dyeing, embroidery and embossing techniques. For fall, she mixed her innovative materials and prints into silhouettes that still felt approachable.

This season’s hues were derived from artist Matthias Weischer’s “very strange, very saturated and off Seventies colors,” Lesser explained at a walk-though. The embossing designs and prints were largely based on the ideas of Portuguese tiles that were fragmented and disjointed, graphically repeating motifs over and over again. These influences manifested into modernist paisley prints, distressed metallic-leather appliqués and acid-washed-out dyes, in gray, blue and green. Standout pieces included an inside-out seamed pant, with a frayed stripe and slit down the side, and an updated denim jacket silhouette with detachable faux-fur sleeves and collar.