Zac Posen pointed out at his fall presentation for Brooks Brothers Women that the brand is coming up on its bicentennial. After two centuries, this is a customer who knows what she wants. Posen appears to be well aware that his job is to steer the brand forward without rocking the boat too much. “It’s not about creating a fashion presentation that’s not really ever going to exist in quantity at retail,” he said. “You can take a collection and pop it out and color it and cartoon it up, but that’s not the reality of the customer.”
The collection was conservative and very classically driven using Brooks Brother’s preppy, tailored vocabulary with some dashes of modern flair. Some things clearly served a very traditional woman, such as a pale-blue tweed jacket over a navy pleated skirt. But most of the collection was brought up to date with careful consideration. For example, a puffer jacket came in the signature Brooks Brothers tartan, worn over a tartan sweater and cigarette pants. There was easy shirtdressing and a dark green velvet suit that could be broken into nice separates with a cable knit sweater. Outerwear offerings included tailored camel coats, and a pretty heathered herringbone robe.