Calvin Luo explored the line between masculinity and femininity for his second NYFW show, questioning preconceived notions of gender identity. He opened his energetic lineup with a male model wearing a wool midi skirt, setting a tone of quiet rebellion. The word “asexual” appeared throughout his gender-ambiguous offerings, including knitwear, wide-leg trousers and sporty hoodies with elongated drawstring ties (a recurring element throughout). Gender-averse, the collection maintained an athletic tether and youthful cuts. The most visually impactful were his playful fabric combinations: a camel coat cut off-the-shoulder had a silk jacquard underneath; a zip shirt was half white cotton, half pleated plaid, and a brown silk jacquard half blazer was carelessly strewn off one shoulder.
As those looks walked off the runway, the lights were turned off and a group of breakdancers appeared, modeling a collaborative capsule collection with the digital-tech company Lenovo. Sporty PVC leather tops and pants featured featherweight and paper-thin LED lights that can control the speed and directionality of words through a mobile app. In the program notes, Luo explained that he is looking for alternatives to prints, and more personal messages that can be displayed through customizable text.