In an exclusive inspirations sketch provided to WWD, designer Chelsea Goldman noted that fall took its cues from “classic dressmaking from the 18th century with a focus on traditional skills.” At her first formal presentation, she added references to Dutch masterworks and that of John Currin’s expressive figures, all of which gave the lineup its Victorian charm. A play on voluminous silhouettes kept it fresh.
It appears many designers are moving away from body-conscious silhouettes in favor of oversized treatments and a relaxed attitude. Save for the soft-boned corsets that provide an instantaneous cool factor to those brave enough to pull one off, Goldman’s collection appeared approachable, and for the most part, practical (sheer hot pink ensembles trimmed with feathers, though editorially friendly, don’t come to mind as casual daywear, but provided a jolt of energy nonetheless). Feathers worked better attached to sheer overlays styled over simple shirting and pants. “If there’s a way to make it feel modern, I wanted to do it,” Goldman mused.
Other key elements included shirting with big sleeves, cinched at the waist or styled with a corset; a floral pattern, produced at a 17th-century mill in London — the same that sources to Buckingham Palace, and wide-legged trousers, a modern yet kitschy throwback to JNCO pants of the Nineties.