Dion Lee has always been known as a master purveyor of sexy, sculpted bodycon silhouettes, but backstage after his fall show, he said he aimed to bring forth a more diverse character of the brand — one that conveyed attitudes of strength and toughness while retaining an air of femininity. Fusing military and sport references, Lee’s neutral-toned lineup — with pops of orange, cobalt and hunter green — contained structured separates and suiting punctuated by a few pieces that leaned fluid and feminine. The latter category included pleated silk slipdresses and velvet track pants, which Lee paired with oversize puffers and wool coats decorated with triangular chain hardware.
Nods to the Army included Lee’s own version of camouflage — rendered into a colorful print on a ruffled one-shoulder dress and, more abstractly, on fuzzy shearling coats — as well as deep cargo pockets on jackets and leather skirts. All of it served to make his girls look strong and streetwise.