Escada is in a bit of a transitional state since the departure of longtime fashion director Daniel Wingate at the end of last year. The brand’s fall collection was created by the design team, drawing on the Hitchcock classics that were the anchor of the pre-fall lineup, while addressing the client’s desire for clean lines and a more casual attitude. This played out on a few levels. The retro Hitchcock vibe took root in A-line dresses, one a diamond print, with a high spread collar and a loose tie back, as well as throwback ladylike outerwear — trim minks and a gray A-line alpaca with a jeweled button — and pretty flats with square jeweled buckles. On the more relaxed side, well, Escada doesn’t serve a dressed-down clientele. There’s a big boardroom contingent, for which there were more fluid, boyish-cut suits and parkas that toed the polished side of sporty with fur trims and peplum details.

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