Rio Uribe’s fall collection for Gypsy Sport was an homage to living outdoors, and he cited everything from Burning Man, punk subcultures and tent cities as references for his gender-bending lineup. Perhaps aware of the inherent risk of being accused of exploiting vagrant culture, Uribe opened his show by speaking directly to his audience over a loudspeaker with messages of compassion and inclusion. “There is a huge cloud of hate floating in the world right now, led by men who are afraid of what we can do when we come together and unite,” he said. “Let us unite to fight for a new, decent world….There is plenty of room for all of us here.”
His runway, which had been transformed into a campground, featured a talented quartet of live bucket drummers, a common sight in New York City subway stations. Uribe sent out varying takes on urban and hippie grunge with tons of tie-dye and inverted camouflage prints in pink and burgundy. Throughout the lineup, he worked fabrics that deliver warmth — such as velvet, fleece, crochet and even metallic heat blankets — into graphic hoodies, trousers and oversize tunic dresses. While most of the looks leaned more “eccentric runway” than reality, there were pieces that could be extracted for modern wardrobes, particularly the series of army green camouflage separates that opened the show.
Though Gypsy Sport is unisex, a few of the looks modeled by men conveyed Uribe’s messages of love loud and clear, such as patchwork tie-dyed hoodies and oversize tees, kaleidoscopic camouflage prints and a humorous Flash Gordon cartoon printed on the back of a sleeveless puffer. Backstage, Uribe noted that many of the looks were handmade; those do-it-yourself creations worked best in a repurposed tent fabric fashioned into a statement hoodie and a safety-pin tank top.