Nicholas and Christopher Kunz harken back to the Nineties. As they recall in their program notes, it was a time when there was “the promise of a global humanitarian community; communal diversity and unity.” They are among the designers who do not hesitate to point out that “recent events seem to unravel this progress.”
How does this show up in their fall collection for Nicholas K? In its African vibe; in their continued use of eco-conscious fabrics — organic cottons, silks, undyed cashmere and faux leather, and their signature sweeping, layering and wrapping. But the wrapping was relentless: in fabric mixes around the hips of slipdresses or pants; sweaters encircling the shoulder…anything, anywhere that could be wrapped and tied became the focus.. What was unwrapped, however, worked beautifully: flowing long-sleeved caftans in sheer earth-toned silk, slender panne velvet dresses and long gray cotton shirtdresses.
The designers showed bronze and gold metallic foil leather pants; thigh-high, spike-heeled boots and biker jackets combined with nose rings and huge hoop earrings. Their attempt at fierce blurred the best of show; they should have stopped at cool.