No matter the city, no matter the location, a Philipp Plein show is always an experience, often one that tries the patience of attending editors. For his New York Fashion Week debut, the German-born designer chose Fifth Avenue’s New York Public Library as the venue for his fall runway show. His over-the-top extravaganza included girls dressed as Statues of Liberty, welcoming guests on the library’s stairs, lights projecting the American flag on the building’s facade; inside there was a live performances by Nas and The Kills. For those accustomed to the brand’s events in Milan, it wasn’t a shock that guests were forced to wait outside in the cold even after checking in. Once finally making it indoors, there was a one-hour delay before the first look hit the runway, compounded by a late arrival by none other than Madonna.
In this circuslike atmosphere, it was easy to forget the fashion. The collection included everything you can expect from the label — superexpensive materials crafted into silhouettes ranging from street-cool to sexy decorated with flamboyant details. Most of the looks were developed in both men’s and women’s versions. These included oversize vinyl puffers, leather bomber and biker jackets embellished with embroidery; T-shirts decorated with New York-inspired graphics; as well as chubby fur coats and other outerwear pieces with a dollar-inspired pattern. There were also destroyed and heavily decorated denim pieces, as well as women’s evening dresses with eye-catching cutouts and encrusted crystals. And although the designer fessed up to being nervous about his New York debut — “it’s a big challenge for me,” he admitted during a pre-show speech, the opulent, over-the-top clothes may have found their target audience right in the U.S. of A.