Sonja Rubin and Kip Chapelle have always followed their own point of view. And that view is more about ease and comfort than reinventing the proverbial wheel. “I don’t think clothes should be bound by seasons or trends and should also be cut for ease and comfort,” insisted Rubin. For fall, that point struck a decidedly loungewear chord for the designers that surfaced in gowns and even coats. A white-piped, black satin long tuxedo dress was wrapped like a dressing gown; slender bias-cut charmeuse gowns were as simple as slips, and the beige mohair or taupe melton long cardigan coats with low patch pockets had the nonchalance of classic robes.
The designers did not abandon structure when they shaped silk satin jackets that were faced with organza to add body or cut a few crisp cropped pantsuits. For some sporty printed looks, Rubin & Chapelle had only to look out the window of their new showroom and studio in a warehouse at Hudson Yards. They interpreted the skyline and architecture in strong graphic patterns. These were cleverly rendered but the softness and glamour of their lingerie niche was their strong suit.