One may ask what do Eileen Gray, the furniture designer and architect who was one of the pioneers of the modern movement, and Madonna have in common? Well, both women inspired Samu-Jussi Koski’s fall collection for his label Samuji. The Finnish designer played with architectural elements, apparent in his voluminous outerwear and the geometric shapes of his dresses and skirts. Koski also paid homage to Nineties Madonna and her “Truth or Dare” documentary. “The world seamed less judgmental” then, he said via FaceTime. He showed crisp shirtings, ribbed dresses and a ribbed jumper. Overall, Koski created a terrific lineup of rich jacquard dresses, whimsical print frocks, cozy knits, cocoon-shaped outerwear and velvet trousers. For evening, Koski worked a quirky eyelash textile into an effortless gown, a cropped top and a full skirt.

The designer just opened his first U.S. store in New York, where he will most likely develop a cult following for his rich fabrics and artisan prints.

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