In Self-Portrait’s first runway show at New York Fashion Week, Han Chong said he focused on his girl: “What she wants to feel, what she wants to wear in the winter.” The label known for its flirty, guipure lace party dresses has officially expanded into new territory since its launch in 2013, introducing special textures into the mix — this season, in deep-dyed velvets and glen plaids — and a focus on cool, modern separates.
The Prince of Wales check overcoat that opened the show — split up the back for added movement — signaled the shift in gears. It was followed by tomboyish, tailored smoking jackets; ruffled, off-the-shoulder blouses and knits, and high-waisted shorts and trousers done in suede, leather and velvet. Girls who miss those textured lace dresses can still find plenty of frill here. Come fall, it will be best delivered in a devoré velvet floral-embroidered asymmetric lace dress with cutouts at the waist.