“A Woman in a Coat With a Bag.” The title of Albert Kriemler’s latest Akris collection described the essence of his fall effort and the two essential items that can make any woman’s winter wardrobe. Put a beautiful coat over jeans, gym clothes, a dress or sweats and it’s an outfit. Grab a bag, and head out the door.
The title was more than a straightforward description, and the collection was about more than two items. One point of reference was Rodney Graham’s self-portrait “Coat Puller,” which depicts him trying to get into his coat, and an installation called “Der Mantelanzieher.” Kriemler worked that into a fantastic, wide range of coats — and bags, though the coats stole the show. It ended with a finale of eight coats featuring a print of “Coat Puller” on the linings and “Der Mantelanzieher” on the backs.
But otherwise, there were coats and jackets for every occasion, all done in Akris’ impeccable fabrics. Instead of sticking to one narrow conceit, Kriemler went wide, touching on glamour, sport, practicality, femininity and tailoring. An A-line, black-and-white checked double-faced wool coat worn with a matching reversible dress and a window-pane-print bag was graphic and ladylike in a neo-classic way. A long, lean double-faced ivory cashmere coat over a wool sheath, with a black bag, was pure, streamlined elegance. A gray cashmere tweed was tailored with slim drama, with slits up the sides and leather lapels. A round, chunky-knit varsity jacket with slick leather sleeves had a fresh, young attitude and sophisticated execution.
There were ribbed cashmere knit coats, and lush leather coats, such as a vampy reversible fur and leather raincoat with a hood. Kriemler cycled through purple, green, navy and black, played with hefty fabrics and light weights for evening, including a long black chiffon trench. Bags included large, boat-shaped totes and cross-body messengers. It was hard to pick a favorite, but here goes: A navy double-faced cashmere peacoat. Tailored light and lean, and with sleek, black leather buttons, it was perfect.