Kunihiko Morinaga’s fall collection was no less experimental than his previous high-tech offerings, but this time his subject matter focused more on form than function. In his first looks, the Anrealage designer worked with Japanese sculptor Kohei Nawa to carve fused rolls of 300 meters of pale blue denim into two shift dresses, one shaped to look like waves, the other resembling the gnarled openwork roots of a tree.
The fabric residues formed a pale blue moss-like carpet underfoot, accentuating the organic theme that was an undercurrent in the rest of the collection, which was permeated with circular motifs designed to evoke the annual rings of trees. Most apparent on the final look, a skater dress molded from 99 layers of gray felted wool and carved into shape, a theme that recurred in a multitude of manifestations.
As a circular motif, it was found on crocheted knitwear and a pattern on jacquards and laser-bleached fabrics. It worked well on an outsized coat with a Fifties silhouette and on a pair of wide pants, among the less conceptual items in the collection. The theme continued with the rolls of fabric, denim selvage, zips, ribbons and buttoned hems that Morinaga wound round and round the body repeatedly to build or embellish his designs. Among the standouts here were some surprisingly feminine dresses and separates created almost entirely from the winding and layering of bands of gold or russet satin ribbon.