A cadre of leading retailers and editors turned out for Antonin Tron’s debut runway show for his Atlein label, which was held at the Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac in the Marais district of Paris. It was a sign of the powerful momentum the label has gained in the year since its launch.
Having won the First Collection Prize at the prestigious ANDAM awards last year, Atlein is among the 21 semifinalists for this year’s edition of the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers (in fact, Tron headed straight from his show to the LVMH headquarters on Avenue Montaigne, where the semifinalists were due to present their work to a committee of experts later in the day.)
A veteran of Louis Vuitton, Givenchy and Balenciaga — where he still freelances under creative director Demna Gvasalia — Tron struck out on his own with a line of cool jersey outfits. They still formed the basis of his fall collection, but were augmented this season by sturdier elements such as tailored items, knits and shoes.
Jackets and coats came with chunky zips or gently curved sleeves, inspired by the molded construction of wetsuits. A keen surfer, Tron favors a body-conscious silhouette, using ruching and asymmetric panels to sculpt his figure-hugging dresses and skirts.
Stretched necklines gave the outfits an aerodynamic feel, while panels of velvet floral jacquard added an unexpected splash of color. It suggested that Tron is fast opening his horizons, which should come as welcome news to his growing legion of fans. Watch this space.