It’s clear from the Cyclas collection that creative director Keiko Onose is heavily influenced by her decades of experience as a buyer — first with United Arrows for 13 years, then with her own chain of stores, The Secret Closet, which she opened in 2007. (The brand was previously The Secret Closet’s private label before being launched in 2016.)

Having had direct feedback on what works for her customers, Onose sent out a series of streamlined, monochromatic dresses, coats, sweaters and trousers in a neutral palette of mocha, off-white, tan and light gray that was so pared back as to almost be too quiet. Luxury materials — silk satin, cashmere bouclé, baby alpaca, the odd fur panel — added an upscale pitch.

Standouts included the few pops of color — a minimal fuchsia coat and a parrot-green skirt with an asymmetric handkerchief hem that gave just the right amount of movement — as well as unexpected details, as in satin blousons with a ruched shoulder line in navy and black, which kept the looks current.

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