Elie Saab said his fall collection was inspired by “Giselle,” though he flitted around the theme with a display of moody glamour.
The ballet, about a heartbroken peasant girl who joins the Wilis, a group of ghostly spirits of maidens, is best known for its scenes with the female corps de ballet costumed in pure white.
Saab, by contrast, worked a somber palette of deep purple, ink black and royal blue — with a sprinkling of a pale-pink shade that his show notes fancifully referred to as “whisper-light sugar, as if from a maiden’s blushed cheek.”
The dancer-inspired silhouettes were most evident on corseted dresses with velvet ribbon details or laced backs. These included an upscale purple dirndl with horizontal lace insets, as well as a vampy purple lace maxi gown where the velvet ribbons framed a bare neckline.
Tutus inspired sheer, embroidered or lacy skater skirts, while lilies were also a recurring motif. They were traced in gold studs on a leather biker jacket, and formed an appliqué pattern in black velvet outlined with gold sequins on sheer black tulle.
The delicate designs contrasted with demonstrative outerwear, including velvet demi-capes that hung off one shoulder and coats with extravagant fur collars and cuffs. Crystal-studded tights and furry open-toed ankle boots completed the look.
Whereas in recent seasons, the designer has tapped models with a large social media following to create buzz around his show, this time he let the clothes do the talking. With no fewer than 65 looks marching down the runway, expect to see quite a few waltzing down the red carpet soon.