“A patchwork of memories” is how Esteban Cortazar referred to one of his patterns, which was a print created from his entire Instagram feed. But it also applied to the collection as a whole. Marking his tenth year showing in Paris (already!), the designer recycled archive pieces, weaving in nods to his Anglo-French heritage and other influences including the teddy bear sculptures of Mike Kelley and the playful spirit of “childhood mentor,” Todd Oldham.
In his fun “gitana punk” meets “Clueless” silhouettes, there were the familiar ingredients — the buttery leathers, the satin Neoprene hems — and the not-so, like the hybrid pants combining wool and teddy-bear fur dipped in an all-over tartan print; the bombers and athletic minis revisited in patchworks of foulards, and an airy orange and turquoise sweater dress with the motif worked onto a tulle base, which was terrific. The bicolor boots made of chintzy brocade and Day-Glo fur had the same whatever-goes fusion vibe — again, of the teddy bear variety.