The pitch sounded promising: sidestepping the unisex bandwagon to go back to the house’s roots, “Guy Laroche’s use of sexiness as a backbone to elegance,” as per the show notes. Two archive photos were cited among starting points: one of a woman in a long black crepe dress and another in a colored fur coat, both from couture collections from the early Seventies.
But the delivery lacked substance. Getting off to a good start, designer Adam Andrascik opened with a navy jacket with a bicolor band of fur extending from the collar and wrapping around the body to drape at the back, which was lovely. The remainder of the collection felt a little repetitive, however, focused on long and lean pant silhouettes; slim, ribbed V-neck dresses; asymmetric silk crepe dresses in shades of turquoise, hot pink and lime green, and colored shirtdresses cinched with black knitted bandeaus, which made for an odd combination. The looks were nice enough but lacked emotional appeal.
Keepers included the cropped caramel shearling jacket paired with a classic wide navy pant, a tan leather trench with a button-back lapel, and a pant with flecks of multicolored embroidery.