Simon Porte Jacquemus called his fall show “L’Amour D’un Gitan” or The Love of a Gypsy.” A more fitting title would’ve been “Fun and Games With Sober Tailoring That Will Probably Make You Miss the Saint Laurent Show.” The bulk of the lineup was black, navy, white and gray — a polka dot here, a pink shirt there — and was shown at the Paris Event Center, clear across town from YSL’s chosen venue. It was practically next season by the time the deliberately slow finale traversed the football field length of the pink runway, causing many editors, including this one, to miss the Saint Laurent show. More logistics, less pink runway next time, please.
Back to the clothes. They weren’t for gypsies, but a woman in love with a gypsy. She herself wasn’t bohemian per se, but she was carefree enough to carry an upside down pink bag with her sculpted coat with a portrait neckline. The looks had roots in another era — Forties/Fifities — with exaggerated, strong sleeved and shouldered tops over slim ruched toreador pants and many oversize men’s coats nipped, tucked, curved and scrunched to look genuinely borrowed from a much larger man and artfully improvised for a woman.
Jacquemus has a cinematic eye for shape and silhouette. Here, he brought it into sharp focus with cuts and fits that won’t just make a dramatic picture but can work in real life. While known for his statement tops, his coats and dramatic blouses, the bottoms were equally compelling. A nipped-waist wrapped jacket over ruched pants was a strong, refreshing silhouette, and would’ve looked just as good in a more centrally located venue.