Lutz Huelle continued playing with material and volume contrasts, but whereas last season’s collection was club infused, his fall lineup had an enhanced luxury quotient, thanks largely to more streamlined silhouettes.

The designer continued on with his hybrid signature pieces, such as a jacket made of washed denim and black puffer fabric. More than for spring, he pumped up the volume of some trenchcoats and jackets’ shoulders, with higher folds, while narrowing the shoulders on poufier-sleeved numbers.

Helping to elevate this collection was a trench morphed into a cape, and dresses and jackets with capelike feels, due to slits that served as sleeves. One strong example was a navy V-neck tunic top worn with black-and-silver trousers and long, brown gloves.

Also good for a night out uptown — or down — was the asymmetric, long green dress paired with blue slouchy boots by Robert Clergerie.

Huelle’s collection made no overt political message on the catwalk. But that didn’t mean he didn’t have one. Tucked away in his brand’s show notes was a quote from Archbishop Desmond Tutu, reading: “In spite of all the horror of injustice and oppression, and the sense that those who perpetrate evil tend to appear invincible, the texture of our universe is one where there is no question at all but that good and laughter and justice will prevail.”

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