Martin Grant peppered his fall collection with masculine staples like trouser suits, trenchcoats and striped shirting, some of which had a Seventies flair.
To wit: an asymmetric black corduroy cape with skinny flares, or a white double-breasted tuxedo jacket with extrawide pants. Worn with a black fedora, they channeled David Bowie, circa his Thin White Duke period.
Grant introduced more unusual textures for day, including a shearling-like cream wool fabric that was used for items including a leather-trimmed jacket and a V-neck top; dressier pieces came in a slinky satin-striped fabric, such as a black puff-sleeve dress and a powder-pink pajama suit.
He went ultra-feminine for evening, with a one-sleeve cocktail dress in metallic Lurex or a black long-sleeve gown embroidered at the neck with a beautiful abstract floral motif rendered in tiny Japanese pearls, sequins and French knots.
It made for a grounded and versatile wardrobe that illustrated the designer’s skill at navigating the masculine-feminine divide. His recent red carpet credits prove it: At the César awards, France’s equivalent to the Oscars, French actress Nathalie Baye wore a midnight-blue velvet column dress, while director Nicole Garcia opted for a black tuxedo.