Though he’s known for his deconstructed pieces, the simpler looks at Samuel Drira’s fall collection worked best, like the pretty, drapy, floral dresses created from squares; sweeping workwear-inspired apron dresses, and zippered shearling aviators with gently sculpted collars.

The asymmetric tailoring came off a little clunky, and a line of distressed knits in felted wools with a square’s points sticking up at the back like tent poles looked a little rigid in a collection that at times felt a little too intellectual for its own good. Among the standout silhouettes was the cream A-line wool dress worn with an oversize trench, which felt more in line with the sense of ease the label is known for.

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