Alithia Spuri-Zampetti looked back on Parisian fashion history for her appealing fall collection for Paule Ka, taking a broad range of ornamental and structural references and twisting, pleating and draping them into clothes with a seeming ease and lightheartedness that transcended the subject matter. “It’s all about imitation. This is still what happens in fashion in Paris,” the designer said.
She staged her presentation in the opulent Opera Ballroom of the InterContinental Paris Le Grand Hotel, with its neoclassical plasterwork and baroque decor. The sculptures of the venue were the inspiration for a series of draped coats in pristine white, checked wools and tweeds; scarf shapes and fringed details added to their architectural — yet cozy — feel.
A series of gowns referencing corsetry and crinolines à la Marie-Antoinette were twisted into contemporary eveningwear. Simpler versions included an off-white Neoprene shift dress with corsetlike stitching, while other gowns updated the sweetheart necklines, ample skirts, brocades and ruffles of the past.
Spuri-Zampetti went on with an all-out play on opulence and texture, pleating metallic chantilly lace in a variety of bright hues to graphic effect on dresses, skirts and jackets that had a touch of the glam rock about them, or working heavy metallic jacquards with a camouflagelike pattern and gold fringe details in other looks.