Véronique Leroy’s love affair with the Eighties took a wrong turn this season as the designer brought back the decade’s most unfortunate trends with a lineup of gelled quiffs, oversized buckles and maxi shoulder pads.
The opening look — a brown crushed-velvet onesie with a neck scarf fastened by a geometric clasp — was so ungainly that one could only hope it was some sort of inside joke. It turned out that velvet — in brown, but also in gray and shocking pink — was a central theme of the collection.
There were brown crushed-velvet dungarees, worn over a ruched white Spandex shrug top and tucked into brown velvet boots. Lime-green ruched Spandex pants with a high, elastic waistband were paired with a green-and-black zebra-print crop top, gray velvet boots and a sheepskin fleece bomber jacket. You get the drift.
Outré, borderline ugly clothes are having a moment, thanks to labels like Vetements and Gosha Rubchinskiy, and there will surely be some takers for the slinkier elements in this collection: a gray ribbed bodysuit with legs that stretched on like legwarmers, or a crystal-embellished black velvet jumpsuit with a fringed shawl belt (even if the model that wore it looked like she was about to cry).