The Y’s collection has always been about women dressing in men’s clothing, albeit with adapted cuts, but Yohji Yamamoto wanted to take the concept further than ever for fall in a collection that was described as transgender.

As such, a boxy outsize jumpsuit that came in camouflage wool had definite street appeal, while a cream and white wide-weave coat, with its huge collar, made for major dimensional play. As was to be expected, there was lots of minimal black and white, as on a range of baggy shirts in different shapes, but navy blue was also key. Among the standouts were extra wide-leg pants in an indigo jacquard with a camouflage pattern and a navy and black trompe l’oeil cross between a suit jacket and a top.

When it came to prints, the design team had painted a canvas in shades of sludgy green, photographed and pixelated it so it looked almost like a work by Monet and used it on several shirts and an asymmetric pinafore dress.

As for the vintage-inspired Y’s Pink selection, there were a few feminine references that were notable, such as pretty wrap skirts fashioned from traditional Russian scarves and toughened up with black leather kilt-fastener details and a deep green fitted suit jacket with side flaps.