Hiroyuki Horihata and Makiko Sekiguchi have a penchant for designing collections around enigmatic, somewhat archaic concepts of Japanese beauty. This season they chose “iki,” which loosely translates as “freshness” or “vitality.” And while they employed many of the same shapes and textures that they have used in previous collections, there was something subtly fresh about their fall offering.

In addition to the wide-leg pants and fluid duster coats that their customers have come to expect, this season saw the designer duo experiment with trendier and more fitted silhouettes as well. Deep blue leather was fashioned into slim-fitting pants and a jacket with a slight peplum hem, and a geometric-patterned jacquard graced a smart skirt suit with a cropped jacket. The palette of rich blues, greens, grays and black lent a cool vibe, contrasted by intermittent pops of bright yellow and pink. A pair of slim white ankle pants and a matching blouson blouse felt fresh and unexpected among all the layers and warm textures, but were still plenty appropriate for a mild fall day.

Following the theme of traditional Japanese aesthetics, Matohu’s show was staged at a 400-year-old temple that sits in the shadow of Tokyo Tower, a modern Japanese landmark. The juxtaposition of old and new formed the perfect backdrop for a collection that gave a nod to history while standing in the present.

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