Teppei Fujita believes that in order to make deconstructed clothes that still look good, you first have to have the technical knowledge to make perfectly constructed clothes. Thanks to his experience as a pattern maker for Yohji Yamamoto, he has that ability, which could be clearly seen in his fall collection.

Fujita showed oversized suits, jackets and coats with raw, frayed edges, contrast stitching and exposed zippers. Extralong drawstrings, ties and shoelaces hung down the length of the models’ bodies and dragged along the runway as they walked. Balancing out the tailored looks were knits ranging from lightweight and baby pink to chunky gray cable knit, as well as camouflage coats and pants. The majority of pieces had a unisex quality to them, but there was also a skirt, tube top and pair of pants in sparkly metallic silver for women. Asymmetric details abounded.

While Sulvam’s latest collection had a hobo-chic look, it also had an energy and newness that is often lacking in Tokyo shows. It was a strong showing that demonstrated not only Fujita’s creative chops, but also his keen understanding of his market and customers.