Bora Aksu offered his own interpretation of the ongoing discussion on gender, with a fall collection that blended the androgynous and the romantic.
His point of reference was Margaret Ann Bulkley, who managed to become one of the most respected surgeons in 18th-century England by living as a man — James Barry — in her day-to-day life.
With Bulkley’s dual life in mind, Aksu delivered elegant tailored looks for day, as in pinstripe culottes and matching blazers, velvet jumpsuits and wide-leg trousers. They were juxtaposed with ultra feminine, romantic dresses in sorbet shades which are likely to resonate with the growing roster of celebrities the designer has been dressing for the red carpet lately, including Elle Fanning and Kate Nash.
Among the standout looks were a black-and-white midi dress featuring delicate lace and chiffon-tulle tiers and a mini lilac number featuring draped chiffon panels and 3-D floral appliqués.
“I didn’t want to do something unisex or genderless, I wanted to separate the two and showcase that a woman can embrace both sides,” the designer said after the show.