A self-confessed “boy of the Eighties,” Emilio de la Morena looked for inspiration to Barbra Streisand’s “Yentl” musical from 1983 and all the ways it challenged patriarchy.

He translated the musical’s “spirit of defiance” with a lineup filled with bold, bright colors and sharp tailoring. There were mini tweed skirt suits, blazers done in opulent jacquard fabrics and an array of ultra feminine evening options, as in a bright blue gown featuring layers of ruffles or playful fuchsia minidresses matched with tights in the same shade.

The mish-mash of androgynous tailoring with feminine ruffles, delicate organzas and bold colors reflected a recurring trend seen on the London catwalks throughout the week, where designers embraced all different sides of women, in a bid to project an empowering message.

“We need to change, we need to make a difference, so it’s important to offer different options and allow women to choose,” said the designer after the show.

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