Serafina Sama’s wonderfully mish-mashed fall collection was inspired by Joel D. Levinson’s photographs of flea markets in Seventies California and her own experience of Friday morning walks to her London studio, where she passes Portobello Road market and sees people trying on vintage clothes over their own outfits, resulting in unexpected looks.
With Notting Hill scene-setting provided by a steel drum band and beaten-up thrift shop sofas and chairs in the front row, Sama sent forth a collection full of charmingly offbeat, sometimes wacky, looks that nodded to a whole bunch of decades but especially the Eighties.
Sama debuted Isa Arfen’s first denim offering on the catwalk, a selection of straight-leg styles in a fresh vintage blue wash, with tartan turn-ups or knee patches and velvet ribbon belts.
The tartan recurred throughout, in the panels of a high-waisted skirt, as the sleeves of a trenchcoat, patched together in a little dress, as flashes of jacket linings and as big, stiff frills around the neck of a gray cardigan.
A few of the coats stood out: a camel number with rounded sleeves; a fluffy faux fur coat, and a red wool style.
Huge taffeta bows on a party dress and a crop top were sort-of silly but still looked cool. They’ll sell, as will pieces like the rustic sweater jazzed up with a smattering of pebble-sized crystals that was worn with a broderie anglaise skirt, and the narrow track pants that were worn under almost everything.