It was one magical mix: men’s, women’s and pre-collection all together on the runway, and seasonless to boot. After 10 years in business, Jonathan Anderson had wanted to make a change, cast his collection into the future, and it worked. He’ll be doing two runway shows from now on, with six product drops throughout the year. End of story.
Backstage after the show he said he was looking on the bright side. “We need to go forward in an optimistic way, to change things, to make them exciting again. We’re finding that a lot of women are buying men’s — and vice-versa — and for me it was about how do we uniform everything, tighten it up together.”
The collection had a modest, naïve feel to it with long, drop-waist dresses, swingy handkerchief hemlines, crinkled or pleated fabrics, ruffle details and light, fluttery layers done in an original J.W. paisley pattern of yore, or in cream, baby blue or pink.
It was a big collection with knits, some edged with thick fringes, and others with fat doughnut shapes at the wrist and edges, jostled alongside spectacular sleeveless dresses with electric-bright sequined panels. Lightly padded trench coats, including one with sailor-style collar, stood shoulder-to-shoulder with cotton cargo dresses and other zip-back ones with ruffles frothing around the bottom.
All of that optimism spilled into prints and accessories, too, with Anderson popping pink doughnut key chains onto belt loops, and pompoms with bunny ears onto sweatshirts. Little knitted neckties swung from sweaters that were printed with shirts. The designer is clearly having fun with clothes, and it charmed.