Levi Palmer and his partner Matthew Harding made their name with their play on the classic shirt, tweaking it every season — often with asymmetric hems — while other times playing with proportions and or reinventing it into various guises such as dresses or outerwear.
This season, the men rethought their strategy and sought to understand their customer profile, studying who ordered directly from the brand’s e-shop. “Our woman is a very comfortable woman,” Palmer said. “They want comfort and style, and things they can live in from 7 in the morning to midnight because they live busy lives and are constantly on the go.”
Palmer and Harding took that as a starting point for their fall collection and sent out a lineup featuring wide trousers cut high on the waist paired with wedged mules and high-collared shirts.
“It’s about how to get the most movement in a trouser — sometimes it looks like a skirt and then you move and it has a surprise to it,” Palmer said of the cut.
The humble shirt continued to be subverted: elongated into wraparound versions with handkerchief hems; cut with asymmetrical necklines to reveal one shoulder; or manipulated into a trenchcoat with twisted fastenings. Shirts also came in mixed fabrications, such as silk that cascaded down the front and was spliced with jersey.