“I lost my grandparents very close together so I spent a lot of time at funerals lately,” designer Phoebe English said of her collection, which was presented at the Crypt on the Green.
The small collection paid homage to her mother, who is still mourning the death of both of her parents. English expressed her family’s grief with asymmetric shirting with strategic cutaways and plackets in unexpected placements creating a series of gaps — almost like a void that manifests when someone passes away.
Also included were voluminous velvet pants and a smock dress gently twisted across the chest and cascaded into a double wing drape in the back. English crafted the collection in monochrome satin, velvet and corduroy, giving a nod to her mom’s favorite fabrics.
“I grew up with her wearing all that stuff so it’s all an ode to my mother,” the designer said.
This season, English teamed with knitwear designer Helen Lawrence, who created an open-knit netting that was draped over dresses as an overlay and as underpinnings layered beneath asymmetric skirts. The duo first worked together for English’s fall men’s wear collection, for which Lawrence created a series of waffle knits and winter accessories.