Conversations between Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones and a group of 25 “bold, confident, creative and smart” women who they consider to embody the spirit of Teatum Jones sparked the designers’ fall collection. “Through these conversations about their lives and their favorite pieces from our past collections, and how they made them feel, we realized joy, sadness and hope are the three emotions that unite them all,” Teatum told WWD.

Those three emotions translated into the three “chapters” of color in the collection, which featured many of the brand’s greatest hits, like signature oversize statement coats, fluid dresses, elongated sleeves and knitwear with cutout sleeves, all in the beautiful fabrications that earned Teatum Jones the 2016 International Woolmark Prize and a BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund grant last year.

The show began with joy, in a palette of raspberry, red, pink and cornflower blue; sadness was expressed through near-black navy, royal blue and ivory, and hope was all shades of white and cream, florals and a flash of mustard in a trouser suit.

Sleeves were full, gathered and draped in fluid silks, while tailoring was just as compelling, with elegantly belted jackets given cutouts at the elbows and, in the case of a white evening suit, fluted waterfall sleeves.

Dresses are a big deal for Teatum Jones and the best on show were a fluro pink-flocked red organza frock with gathered sleeves — though the handkerchief hemline let it down — and a full-skirted poppy gown in white-to-navy dégradé silk.

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