Back to Milan after nine years showing in London, Antonio Berardi paraded his fall collection show at his new atelier — a charming space with parquet floors and a stucco ceiling.

The opening look — a strapless, draped red gown — announced a softer tone. His usual dramatic, mysterious elegance yielded to new lightness and a touch of positive exuberance. This was reflected in the color palette, which included red, orange and turquoise, and the fabrics, such as the featherweight chiffon for breezy gowns embellished with tactile crystal embroideries. At the same time, Berardi’s sharp cuts, polished tailoring and sophisticated constructions were still there. Blazers featured pockets created by drapes, dresses unveiled ergonomic cuts enhanced by tonal color blocking, multilayers created intriguing 3-D effects and transparent inserts gave the impression of inlaid undergarments on ample taffeta and chiffon maxidresses.

A double-breasted coat with a wide collar expressed a sartorial sophistication, while cozier looks included a sweater with cutout details at the shoulder that was matched to a beautiful pencil skirt punctuated by tiny crystals and embroideries.

Bonded paper taffeta, holographic lace and silver, crocodile printed velvet added some striking, Beatle-like iridescence.

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