Following his fluid kimono-inspired creations for Krizia last season, Antonio D’Anna harked back to the Italian label’s heyday in the Eighties with an idiosyncratic spin on power dressing.
The show notes featured a quote from the 1991 Bret Easton Ellis novel “American Psycho,” in which the name-dropping author checks the brand — a sure testament to its ubiquity at the time, if not the most flattering context.
The Eighties have been all over the catwalks this season, but D’Anna had an offbeat take on the era, mixing Krizia’s signature animal motifs with fabrics such as eel skin — employed for items such as a black trouser suit with carrot pants – and lamb, used on a hybrid fur coat/down jacket.
Oversize knits, pleated tops and tailored jackets were gathered here and there with large gold shirt clips — now there’s an Eighties throwback! — and there was a hint of Ray Petri styling in the use of dramatic volumes, most strikingly on an orange dress that mushroomed at the top and tapered down into a long-fitted skirt.
There were plays on texture, too, notably in the monochrome prints that gave Krizia’s love affair with zebra stripes a graphic twist. Flock effects, chintzed lace and matelassé finishes were just some of the techniques used to make the patterns pop. Ultimately, the show failed to capture the elusive spirit it was chasing.