La Double J Editions has come a long way since it was launched six seasons ago with a line of A-line silk twill dresses, as an offshoot of journalist J.J. Martin’s vintage fashion site.

In the interim, the brand has expanded into homewares, and this season is adding a new category: swimwear. The main collection is also growing, with new materials such as brocades, jacquards and knits adding fresh depth to its array of retro-flavored dress styles, coats and pants.

“I did this as a side project that I thought would be fun to supplement my journalistic work, and then it was just an animal that grew, and now it has five heads. So I haven’t been writing at all for the last year,” said Martin, standing alongside a pop-up installation of the fall looks at Milanese multibrand boutique Banner.

La Double J now has around 35 wholesale partners, including Le Bon Marché, Liberty and Kirna Zabête, but does the bulk of its business direct-to-consumer via its web site, which is powered by The Level Group, the e-commerce provider cofounded by her husband Andrea Ciccoli.

Hence her confidence in taking the collection in a new direction, with items like brocade T-shirts embroidered with bugle beads and leaf-shaped sequins at the neck; a striped sweater worn with a clashing radzimir skirt, and a crepe de chine dress in a colorful pattern by Mantero, the historic mill that provides its prints.

The piled-on effects retained all the charm of her earlier, streamlined confections. A floral-patterned brocade jacket with a contrasting printed lining was paired with matching brocade pants and a pussy-bow blouse in yet another horticultural motif. As they say in Italy, tutto bene.

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