Glamour was the springboard for Paul Surridge’s coed collection that flashed flesh, fur and croc-embossed leather. “To me, glamour is confidence and confidence is comfort,” the brand’s creative director said before the show. Hence the stretchy fabrics, bias cuts and a new bolero jacket done in a biker style, croc look or with a thick black fur trim that Surridge said were meant to be tossed over the shoulders. He also considered signposts of status: Cue silk-scarf hemlines for a dress with a swirling color print inspired by Murano glass, sparkling embroidery on men’s jeans, and fur coats with gold studs embedded in the seams.
This collection had its strong points, including those fluttery scarf-hem dresses, some with the moody Murano blues and burgundies, others with signature Cavalli animal prints. Outerwear, too, delivered some drama in the form of a long tuxedo jacket with slashed sides, the snazzy boleros and a black and bright blue zebra print men’s coat. All too often, though, the collection tipped into showgirl territory, with peek-a-boo cutouts on eveningwear, thigh-high slits on skirts and a crinkly see-through dress, like a fish skin, layered over black lingerie. True glamour requires a little more mystery.