As the designer of a brand who basically works with a single fabrication — La Petite Robe’s signature stretch jersey — every season Chiara Boni has the hard task of making something looking fresh and new without being able to pick various options from the rich, stimulating world of textiles.

Though each piece was still crafted from the label’s comfortable and flattering jersey, this season she managed to also introduce hints of lighter fabrics. Inspired by the elegance of Old Hollywood’s beauties, she played with layers of chiffon and tulle to create more flowy, chic dresses.

Organza was also gracefully draped for the peplum details and appliqués adorning simple column styles, while a cascade of dégradé fringe injected a sense of dynamic movement into a gown with a roaring Twenties’ feel.

For the first time, Boni experimented with traditional suiting patterns, such as pinstriped and Prince of Wales motifs, which infused a refreshing touch of mannish sartorial sensibility and greatly balanced the hyper feminine shapes of structured separates with blazers, fitted jumpsuits and midi frocks. Another smart introduction was outerwear, which ranged from soft robe coats and belted jackets to more dramatic capes trimmed with ruffles.

A quick final note: Boni is definitely a woman passionate about what she does and proud of her creations, which means that, as for any designer, it must be difficult for her to do the final edit for the runway show. Showing 54 looks is definitely a tad too much and it would be highly recommended for the next season to condense the lineup. Sometimes a concise message is the most powerful.

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